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When assembling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee well-known award-winning establishments. But, nestled high among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu located in a outlying part of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. This recognition has left the proprietors totally shocked.

“I’m completely shocked,” says a family member, alluding to his family’s relentless work that led to their small restaurant securing such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the fare, and this establishment more than excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, toastier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning outside its own doors. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.